Coopers - town 101

I'm going to go ahead and NOT mention the fact that I haven't written anything all summer. I figure that it's obvious (hello, sidebar) and after the long, not-so-summer that we've had here in Chicago, I'd like to just move on. Okay?

So, take two: C and I went to Napa and San Francisco last month. We have been trying to get out there for the past few years and finally it worked out. I have a LOT of food and vino stories, but think this one is appropriate for this time of year, namely, harvest time.

Any wine drinker (and most common folk) know that wine is generally aged in barrels. C and I understand the intricacies of the different types of barrels to an extent - we know we like a little oak in our pinot noir, a stainless steel barreled, crisp sauvingnon. What we did not know was manipulating the barrel was a) an uncommon practice or that b) it would have such an amazing output. We learned all about barrels, coopers, the forests of France and more at Del Dotto Vineyard. We elected to kick off our vacation here and splurged on the Cave and Barrel Tasting at their St Helena estate. We ended up with a private tour and a very informative and well-sipped tour guide (I spit/poured more than he did and I was quite tipsy). After an hour of thief poured wine and some of the best cabernets I've ever tasted, we got to this barrel (pic above): 2007 St Helena Block 1, 6 oaks French Selection Cabernet Sauvignon.

Commonly, all oak barrels are either French or domestic (Missouri/Ozarks) and are better known for being "lightly, medium, or heavily" toasted, with each level lending certain characteristics to the wine. Wine makers don't usually disclose the type of oak, though more modern vineyards will let you know since the flavor profiles can so vastly differ. I know this is a lot of info, but bear with me... Del Dotto, not only tells you the type of oak used for aging, they can tell you the forest and the location WITHIN the forest where these trees were pulled from. That was impressive - for instance, "Troncais, center" and you the consumer will know that the center trees are the purest and will affect your wine in a very subtle way. To take it even further, they have petitioned their individual cooper to experiment with alternate woods, grooves in the barrel staves, different forest ranges, etc. All at the price of nearly $2500 each, plus the risk of the wine in that barrel (approximately 30 cases) - all in all, it's an expensive experiment. I applaud their innovation and Mr. Del Dotto's quest to do something different and "mix it up" in Napa and the industry.

The barrel pictured was a patented mix of SIX types of French Oak, one from each of the major harvest areas. The wine was a bold cabernet, medium tannins and very, very smooth finish. Priced @ $125 we could hardly escape with the barrel....although we wanted to try. Sadly, our tour guide wasn't as inebriated as we'd hoped.

Highly recommend a visit to the vineyard - it's small, family owned, accommodating and the cave tour is one-of-a-kind.